Alfama Guide: What It’s Like to Live in Alfama

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A narrow, three-story building with a pastel green facade and balconies on each floor, located on a cobblestone street in Portugal. Clothes hang from the balcony railings. A sign on the ground floor reads "ALFAMA GRILL." Neighboring buildings enclose the picturesque scene.

Alfama, one of Lisbon’s oldest and most historic neighbourhoods, has undergone a remarkable transformation from its humble beginnings as a working-class residential district. Once home to sailors, labourrers, and the less fortunate, Alfama has now become a popular destination for tourists. 

One of the most striking features of Alfama is its unique architectural character. Having survived the devastating 1755 earthquake that reshaped much of Lisbon, Alfama’s labyrinthine network of cobbled alleys (“becos“), winding steps (“escadinhas“), and charming small squares (“largos“) remains largely unchanged from centuries past. Wandering through this enchanting maze, visitors are rewarded with unexpected river views and incredibly picturesque details at every turn.

Despite the influx of tourists, Alfama has managed to retain some of its local colour and authentic charm. The soulful sounds of fado music often echo from open windows, while elderly ladies chat across balconies adorned with laundry out to dry. During street festivals, the aroma of grilled sardines fills the air, and cats can be seen lazily basking in the sun. However, it’s also home to countless Airbnbs, petiscos restaurants, and souvenir shops. 

As a tourist destination, Alfama is considered a must-visit area in Lisbon. However, living in the neighbourhood can be a polarising experience. Some are drawn to its historical charm and unique atmosphere, while others may find the heavily tourist-focused environment less appealing. Many of the bars and restaurants in Alfama cater primarily to visitors, and the lack of amenities, such as large supermarkets or amenities like a locksmith, can be a drawback for residents. Instead, most of the nearest grocery options are small convenience stores.

What’s in the neighbourhood

  1. St. George’s Castle: A historic castle offering breathtaking views of Lisbon, with peacocks roaming the landscaped area, a small museum displaying Moorish artifacts, and a picturesque neighbourhood within its restored walls.
  2. Portas do Sol Viewpoint: Lisbon’s must-see viewpoint, featuring a statue of St. Vincent, street musicians, and a kiosk serving refreshments, perfect for photos and enjoying the view of old Lisbon.
  3. National Pantheon: A church housing the tombs of Portugal’s most illustrious personalities, featuring a huge dome with a view over Alfama, and taking 285 years to complete.
  4. Santa Luzia Viewpoint: A beautiful and romantic viewpoint, adorned with historic tiles and bougainvillea, offering a balcony-like view over Alfama, and featuring a reflecting pool on the lower level.
  5. Fado Museum: A small, highly-regarded museum dedicated to Lisbon’s famous fado music, offering information about the history and meaning of the musical style, with an audioguide included in the entry fee.
  6. Feira da Ladra (Thieves’ Market): Lisbon’s most famous flea market, held on Tuesdays and Saturdays near the Pantheon and Saint Vincent’s church, featuring a wide array of items for sale, from antiques to unique souvenirs.