Alentejo Guide: What Living in the Alentejo is Like

Renting & Buying Property

The Alentejo presents an attractive proposition for those looking to rent or buy property, offering a range of options from rustic farmhouses to modern apartments. The region’s property market is less inflated than popular coastal areas, making it an appealing choice for those seeking value for money without compromising on quality of life.

Buying

Property prices in the Alentejo vary widely depending on location and condition. In rural areas, you can find traditional houses in need of renovation for as little as €50,000 (£43,000), while restored farmhouses or quintas might range from €200,000 to €500,000 (£172,000 to £430,000). Luxury villas with expansive grounds and modern amenities can exceed €1 million (£860,000). The region is known for its traditional architecture, including whitewashed houses with terracotta roofs, but you’ll also find contemporary designs blending seamlessly with the landscape.

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Renting

Rental prices in the Alentejo are generally lower than in Portugal’s more touristy regions. In smaller towns and villages, you can find one-bedroom apartments from around €300-€400 (£258-£344) per month, while larger homes or houses in more desirable locations might range from €600 to €1,200 (£516 to £1,032) per month. Cities like Évora or coastal areas tend to command higher rents. For more detailed information on renting in Portugal, including tenants’ rights and contract details, visit this comprehensive guide.

Cost Of Living

The cost of living in the Alentejo is generally lower than in Portugal’s major cities or popular coastal regions. Property costs, whether renting or buying, are typically the most significant expense. However, other daily expenses such as food, utilities, and entertainment are quite reasonable. Local markets offer fresh produce at affordable prices, and dining out can be surprisingly inexpensive, especially if you opt for traditional tascas or local restaurants. Utilities might be slightly higher due to the need for heating in winter and cooling in summer. Overall, the Alentejo offers a high quality of life at a fraction of the cost you might expect in more developed areas of Western Europe.

Can I move to the Alentejo?

Portugal offers several visa and residency options for those dreaming of living in the Alentejo. Whether you’re a digital nomad seeking inspiration amidst the rolling hills or a retiree looking for a peaceful haven, there’s likely a suitable option for you.

The most common options are:

• EU/EEA/Swiss nationals: These individuals can move to the Alentejo with relative ease, without needing a visa. This also applies to their spouses/partners and some qualifying family members.
• The D7 Visa: Ideal for retirees with a pension or social security or those with passive income such as income from a rental property or dividends.
• The D8 Visa: Perfect for remote workers or freelancers who can work from anywhere. Picture yourself working from a restored farmhouse, surrounded by cork oak forests.
• The Golden Visa: For those with significant savings to invest, the golden visa allows you to invest in Portuguese businesses and funds. One of the major selling points of the golden visa is flexibility – golden visa holders only need to spend an average of 7 days per year in Portugal to maintain their residency.
• The D2 Visa: Aimed at entrepreneurs. The Alentejo’s growing wine and tourism industries could offer exciting business opportunities.

Can I move to Portugal?

Attractions

Évora

The jewel of the Alentejo, Évora is a UNESCO World Heritage site boasting a remarkable collection of well-preserved monuments. The city’s history spans over 2000 years, evident in its Roman Temple, medieval walls, and Gothic cathedral. Wander through its narrow, winding streets and you’ll discover hidden squares, local crafts shops, and excellent restaurants serving regional cuisine.

Monsaraz

Perched atop a hill overlooking the Alqueva Reservoir, Monsaraz is a small fortified village that seems frozen in time. Its castle offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and into Spain. The village’s whitewashed houses, narrow cobblestone streets, and medieval church create a magical atmosphere, especially beautiful at sunset.

Comporta

For those seeking coastal charm, Comporta offers a laid-back alternative to the bustling Algarve. Known for its pristine beaches stretching for miles, traditional thatched-roof houses, and excellent seafood restaurants, Comporta has become a chic getaway. Despite its growing popularity, it maintains a low-key vibe that perfectly embodies the Alentejo’s relaxed lifestyle.

Alqueva Dark Sky Reserve

The Alentejo is home to the world’s first “Starlight Tourism Destination”. The Alqueva Dark Sky Reserve offers unparalleled stargazing opportunities due to its low light pollution. Visitors can enjoy guided night sky observations, astrophotography sessions, and even stay in accommodations specially designed for stargazing.

Expat Life

Expat life in the Alentejo is characterised by a slower pace and a deep immersion in Portuguese culture. While not as populous with international residents as the Algarve or Lisbon, the region is attracting a growing number of expats seeking an authentic Portuguese experience. You’ll find a diverse mix of nationalities, with British, Dutch, German, and French expats being among the most common.

The expat community in the Alentejo tends to be more dispersed and integrated with the local population compared to more touristic areas. This offers a unique opportunity to truly engage with Portuguese culture and lifestyle. Many expats are drawn to the region for its tranquillity, natural beauty, and affordable cost of living.

Larger towns like Évora, Beja, and Elvas have small but active expat communities, often organising social events and meet-ups. However, be prepared for a more independent lifestyle, especially if you choose to live in rural areas. Learning Portuguese becomes crucial here, as English is less widely spoken compared to more touristy regions.

Retiring Here

Retiring in the Alentejo offers a serene and affordable lifestyle that’s increasingly attractive to international retirees. The cost of living is notably lower than in many other European retirement destinations, allowing for a comfortable lifestyle on a modest pension. The region’s gentle pace of life, coupled with its rich cultural heritage and natural beauty, provides an ideal setting for those seeking a peaceful retirement. The relatively flat terrain in many areas makes it accessible for those with mobility concerns, although some historic towns have hilly sections.

Healthcare in the Alentejo is generally good, with public hospitals in major towns and a network of local health centres. However, some retirees opt for private health insurance for quicker access to specialists. It’s important to research private hospitals in the area as there are typically fewer opportunities than in places like the Algarve or Lisbon.

The region offers plenty to keep retirees active and engaged, from exploring ancient monuments and picturesque villages to participating in local festivals and wine tastings. The warm climate encourages an outdoor lifestyle, with opportunities for hiking, birdwatching, and even golfing in some areas.

Food

The Alentejo is renowned for its hearty, flavourful cuisine, and is regarded as some of the best in Portugal. Here are some regional specialities:

• Açorda Alentejana: A bread soup with garlic, coriander, olive oil, and poached eggs. This comforting dish epitomises Alentejo’s peasant cuisine.
• Carne de Porco à Alentejana: A unique pork and clam dish, showcasing the region’s love for combining meat and seafood.
• Migas: A side dish made from breadcrumbs, garlic, and olive oil, often served with pork.
• Sericaia: A delicate egg pudding often served with Elvas plums, a regional favourite.

You’ll also find national Portuguese dishes like caldo verde (kale soup), grilled fish, grilled meat dishes, and cozido à portuguesa (a Portuguese stew) on most traditional Portuguese menus. And of course, the ubiquitous pastel de nata is never far away.

For vegans, vegetarians, and those requiring gluten-free options, choices can be limited, especially in rural areas. Larger towns like Évora are becoming more accommodating to diverse dietary needs, but it’s wise to research and plan ahead. Traditional Alentejo cuisine is heavy on meat and bread, but the abundance of fresh produce means that with some communication, most restaurants can accommodate dietary restrictions.

Upsides & Downsides Of Living Here

Pros

• Authentic Portuguese lifestyle
• Lower cost of living compared to coastal areas and major cities
• Rich cultural heritage and beautiful landscapes
• Excellent food and wine
• Slower pace of life
• Less touristy and overcrowded than other regions

Cons

• Limited public transportation, especially in rural areas
• Fewer job opportunities compared to major cities
• Extreme summer temperatures, particularly inland close to the Spanish border
• Less developed infrastructure in some rural areas
• Fewer English speakers, which can be challenging for non-Portuguese speakers
• Limited nightlife and entertainment options outside of major towns

Climate

The Alentejo experiences a Mediterranean climate with continental influences, characterised by hot, dry summers and mild winters. Summer temperatures often soar above 35°C (95°F), occasionally reaching 40°C (104°F) or more. Winters are relatively mild, with daytime temperatures typically ranging from 5°C to 15°C (41°F to 59°F), though frost can occur on colder nights.

Spring and autumn are particularly pleasant, with comfortable temperatures and beautiful landscapes. The region receives most of its rainfall between October and April, while summers are typically very dry.

While the Alentejo’s coastline offers some relief from the intense summer heat, much of the region is inland. However, the area boasts numerous river beaches (praias fluviais) where locals and visitors alike can cool off during the hottest months.

Will I Need To Learn Portuguese?

In the Alentejo, learning Portuguese becomes more crucial than in more touristy areas of Portugal. While you might find English speakers in larger towns like Évora, particularly in tourist-oriented businesses, many rural areas and smaller villages primarily communicate in Portuguese.

Learning the language will significantly enhance your daily life and integration into the local community. From navigating local markets to engaging with neighbours or dealing with administrative tasks, Portuguese skills will prove invaluable. The Alentejanos are known for their warmth and hospitality, and they deeply appreciate efforts to speak their language, even if it’s just basic phrases.

Moreover, Portuguese language skills are essential for fully immersing yourself in the rich culture and traditions of the Alentejo. From understanding local folklore to participating in community events, speaking Portuguese opens doors to authentic experiences.

Remember, if you’re considering long-term residency or citizenship, you’ll need to pass an A2 level Portuguese language exam. Start your language journey today – check out our comprehensive guide to learning European Portuguese for resources and tips to get you started.

Schools

The Alentejo offers a range of educational options, although choices may be more limited compared to larger urban areas. Public schools are available throughout the region and are free for residents. These schools follow the Portuguese curriculum and instruction is in Portuguese, making them an excellent option for younger children to integrate quickly.

Private schools are less common in the Alentejo but can be found in larger towns. These may offer bilingual programs or follow alternative educational philosophies.

International schools are not common in the Alentejo. The nearest options are typically in Lisbon or the Algarve, which might be too far for daily commuting. Families seeking international curricula might need to consider homeschooling options or boarding schools in other regions. Alternatively, consider moving to somewhere like Central Portugal or the Algarve, where you will find more international schools.

For higher education, the University of Évora, founded in 1559, is the main institution in the region. It offers a wide range of undergraduate and postgraduate programs and has a small international student community.

For more detailed information about the Portuguese school system and educational options for expat families, check out our comprehensive guide to schools in Portugal.

Getting Around

Getting around the Alentejo often requires a combination of transportation methods. While larger towns like Évora have fairly walkable historic centres, the vast distances between towns and attractions usually necessitate other forms of transport.

The region is generally flat to gently rolling, making it pleasant for walking or cycling within towns. However, the Alentejo’s expansive nature means that most residents rely heavily on cars for day-to-day life.

• Train: The Alentejo has a limited rail network. The main line connects Lisbon to Évora and continues to Beja. While scenic, train services are infrequent and don’t reach many smaller towns.
• Bus: Intercity bus services connect major towns and villages, so getting from one large town to another is fairly doable. These can be reliable but infrequent, especially in rural areas.
• Car: Having a car is almost essential for living in the Alentejo, particularly if you’re in a rural area. It provides the freedom to explore the region’s scattered attractions and navigate daily life more easily.
• Taxis & Ride-sharing: Uber is available in larger towns like Évora, but not widespread throughout the region. Traditional taxis are generally affordable and can be found in most towns, although hours and services are limited in smaller towns.
• Flying: The nearest major airport is Lisbon, about 1.5 hours drive from Évora. It offers extensive connections to the US, Canada, UK, and beyond. Beja Airport occasionally handles charter flights but doesn’t always offer commercial flights. The Algarve’s airport, Faro Airport, is also worth considering.

Day trips from the Alentejo can take you to a variety of fascinating destinations. Within a couple of hours’ drive, you can reach Lisbon for big-city excitement, the stunning beaches of the Algarve, or cross into Spain to explore Seville or Mérida. Closer to home, you might visit the marble towns of Estremoz and Vila Viçosa, the pottery centre of São Pedro do Corval, or enjoy wine tasting in Reguengos de Monsaraz.

Similar locations

When comparing the Alentejo to other regions in Portugal for living, several alternatives come to mind:

1. Central Portugal: Offers a similar rural lifestyle with lower costs of living. It’s less hot in summer but can be colder in winter.
2. Silver Coast: Provides a coastal living option with a more temperate climate, but it’s generally more expensive and touristy than the Alentejo.
3. Douro Valley: Known for its wine production like the Alentejo, it offers beautiful landscapes but with a cooler climate and more challenging terrain.
4. Algarve: While more expensive and touristic, it offers more amenities and a larger expat community, particularly appealing for retirees seeking coastal living. The inland Algarve, particularly closer to the Algarve-Alentejo border, is more reminiscent of the Alentejo and typically more affordable than the coast also.

Each region has its unique charm, but the Alentejo stands out for its combination of vast open spaces, rich cultural heritage, excellent cuisine, and relatively low cost of living.