In Portugal, life revolves around coffee. Here, you never have to walk very far before you come to a pastelaria or coffee shop (literally: a pastry shop).
The pastelaria is the heart of Portugal, and you will find at least one in every neighbourhood. Often, there will be two or three, and they will almost always have customers.
Pastelarias are different to the coffee shops you see in America and Britain. You can not only get coffee, cakes, and savoury items here, but a main meal (prato do dia) and alcohol as well. In fact, you’ll often see older men or manual labourers drinking a small beer or a glass of wine alongside their coffee in the morning.
For a foreigner, however, the pastelaria can be a confusing place – especially when it comes to ordering coffee. Unlike coffee shops in most other countries, there’s no sign up listing all of the different coffees. Often there’s no menu on the table either.
I’ve come to the conclusion that sometime between childhood and adulthood, all Portuguese children must pass an initiation where they memorise the entire contents of a Pastelaria menu off by heart.
So, for the rest of us, here’s a guide to ordering coffee in Portugal.
This is an espresso, and it’s what you’ll get if you ask for a coffee (um café). It’s short, rich, chocolatey and the most popular coffee in Portugal. Cafés are drunk several times per day in Portugal, just like shots, to keep people going.
In Lisbon, you would ask for “uma bica” (bee-kah) whereas in Porto you would ask for “um cimbalino.” You can just ask for “um café” in either city, though, and people will know what you mean.
Sidenote: Apparently BICA stands for Beba Isto Com Açucar (drink this with sugar) because when it first came to Portugal it was considered extremely bitter. I often drink mine without sugar, but adding sugar is definitely not seen as sacrilegious: most people add sugar.
“Um café cheio” or “uma bica cheia”
In Portugal, a normal café is never quite filled to the top. If you want that extra bit of water, you ask for “um café cheio” or “uma bica cheia”.
This is a café or espresso that has been topped up with milk. In Spain, this type of coffee is known as a cortado.
This is a milder-tasting espresso that’s around 50% coffee and 50% milk. The word garoto literally means a little boy. Apparently, this is because this is what parents give their kids when they’re trying to introduce them to coffee.
I don’t know if that’s true or not, but anyone (adults included) can order um garoto.
A carioca is a weak form of espresso that’s ideal if you’re not looking to get too wired on coffee. Normally when an espresso is made, the old coffee is emptied out and replaced with freshly grounded coffee. To make a carioca, you don’t change the coffee.
The closest type of coffee to this is a Ristretto.
“um café duplo”
A café duplo is a double expresso. This is what you drink when your neighbour’s dog has been keeping you up all night, or you’re busy cramming for exams.
“Café com Cheirinho”
A “Café com Cheirinho” or “Bica com cheiro” is a coffee with a drop of brandy or aguardente in it.
You can also order the two separately, and you’ll often see older Portuguese men drinking a coffee alongside a glass of brandy.
“Café com gelo”
This is as far as Portugal goes when it comes to iced coffee: an espresso and a glass of ice. You put the two together, and make your own iced coffee.
This is a decaffeinated coffee or espresso, but you can add the word descafeinado to any of the coffees to make it a decaf.
Want to get more particular (read: more Portuguese) about your coffee. Ask for your coffee in a chávena quente (hot cup).
“Uma meia de leite”
This is half milk and half coffee, and it’s similar to a flat white or a latte. If you want it stronger, you ask for “uma meia de leite escura.” Recently, places have started experimenting with latte art, although that’s a fairly new thing.
Um galão is a tall glass of warm milk with coffee in it. This is a popular drink in the morning and around 16:00-17:00, especially if you’re having some food alongside. Usually this is made using the carioca coffee method whereby the machine isn’t re-filled with freshly ground coffee, resulting in a weaker coffee. If you want a stronger coffee, particularly first thing in the morning, you can ask for a galão directo aka a proper shot of espresso in your galão. On the other hand, if you aren’t a big coffee drinker, you could ask for a “galão clarinho,” which is an even milkier version of the galão.
“um abatanado com um pouco de leite”
A black coffee (similar to an Americano) with some milk.
“Um abatanado” is somewhere between an espresso and an Americano. If you want a long black coffee, this is the closest thing that you can get to it. Even then, it isn’t always as big a coffee as a lot of people will like.
Note: To some people, an abatanado means an espresso in a larger cup and topped up with water. To other people, however, an abatanado means a coffee with two shots of espresso. That’s more coffee than most tourists are looking for: most are just looking for a large cup of black coffee. If you don’t want the second shot, be sure to say “só um dose de café.”
If you’re not a coffee drinker, here are some other drinks that you could order.
“Uma carioca de limão”
Lemon and hot water.
Chá is tea, and normally if you say tea that means black tea (chá preto). If you want an English builder’s brew, you could ask for “chá preto com leite.” Some places will automatically just bring milk to foreigners though. I once ordered a chá verde (green tea), and was asked if I wanted milk.
Other teas you could ask for are chá camomila (chamomile tea), chá tilia (tilia tea), and chá de frutos vermelhos (red fruits tea).
“Um copo de leite”
If even a galão clarinho sounds like too much coffee for you, you could order “um copo de leite” (a cup of milk).
“Leite com chocolate”
Milk with chocolate powder (e.g. Nesquik).
“Sumo de Laranja”
What to order with your coffee
Now, that’s a whole other question. The easiest thing to order, especially if you’re visiting Portugal for the first time, is a pastel de nata (what many people call a Portuguese custard tart).
This isn’t Portugal’s only pastry – be sure to read the list of all the other cakes you should try – but it’s a good place to start. Many pastelarias also serve a main meal at around lunchtime, which is almost always something traditional and usually very affordable as well. If you’re looking to try some traditional Portuguese dishes, the pastelaria is a good place to go.