Ericeira, a charming seaside town situated approximately 50 kilometres (31 miles) northwest of Lisbon, offers a unique blend of coastal living and proximity to Portugal’s vibrant capital. Once primarily a fishing village, Ericeira has transformed into a haven for expats, particularly attracting surfers, digital nomads, and professionals in their 20s, 30s, and 40s. With a population of around 10,000, this picturesque town boasts a more upmarket feel compared to many other coastal settlements in Portugal.
Living in Ericeira means embracing a lifestyle where traditional Portuguese charm meets international flair. The town’s cobblestone streets and whitewashed buildings provide a backdrop to a thriving expat community, making it an ideal destination for those seeking a balance between work and leisure. Ericeira’s world-renowned surf breaks and stunning beaches are complemented by a growing array of trendy cafés and restaurants, offering everything from açaí bowls to vegan burgers alongside traditional Portuguese fare.
The cost of living in Ericeira, particularly for housing, can be comparable to Lisbon, reflecting its desirability among both locals and internationals. However, the trade-off comes in the form of a laid-back coastal lifestyle, excellent weather, and a strong sense of community. For those considering retirement or a move abroad, Ericeira presents an attractive option that combines the best of Portuguese culture with modern amenities and a welcoming expat scene.
Renting & Buying Property
Ericeira’s property market reflects its growing popularity among both locals and expats. Whether you’re looking to rent or buy, you’ll find a range of options, from traditional Portuguese homes to modern apartments with ocean views.
Buying
Property prices in Ericeira can be comparable to those in Lisbon, reflecting the town’s desirability. You’ll find a diverse range of properties, from charming fishermen’s cottages in need of renovation to luxury villas with stunning sea views. Prices for a two-bedroom apartment in the town centre can start around €200,000, while larger villas or properties with ocean views can easily exceed €500,000. The types of properties available include traditional Portuguese houses, modern apartments, and detached villas, many of which come with outdoor space to enjoy the excellent climate.
Search properties for sale in Ericeira
Renting
Rental prices in Ericeira are also on the higher side, often matching or even exceeding those in Lisbon. A one-bedroom apartment in the town centre might cost between €600-€900 per month, while a three-bedroom house could range from €1,000-€1,500 or more, depending on location and amenities. Keep in mind that prices can fluctuate seasonally, with higher rates during the summer months. For more information on renting in Portugal, including your rights as a tenant and what to expect from the rental process, visit this helpful guide.
Cost of Living
The cost of living in Ericeira is generally higher than in many other parts of Portugal, primarily due to its popularity and proximity to Lisbon. Housing costs, as mentioned, are the most significant expense. However, other living costs can be reasonable compared to major Western European cities or the US.
Groceries and dining out can be affordable, especially if you shop at local markets and eat at traditional Portuguese restaurants rather than touristy establishments. Utility costs are generally moderate, benefiting from Portugal’s mild climate. Healthcare costs are relatively low, especially if you’re eligible for the public healthcare system.
Transportation costs can vary; while local bus services are affordable, many residents find owning a car necessary for convenience, which adds to the overall cost of living. Overall, a couple could expect to live comfortably in Ericeira on a budget of €2,000-€3,000 per month, excluding rent.
Can I move to Ericeira?
Portugal offers various visas and residency permits for EU/EEA/Swiss nationals and non-EU citizens, including options for students, retirees, and entrepreneurs.
The most common options are:
- EU/EEA/Swiss nationals: Can move to Portugal relatively easily without a visa. This also applies to their spouses/partners and some qualifying family members.
- The D7 Visa: Ideal for those with regular passive income, such as pensions, social security, rental income, dividends, or royalties.
- The D8 Visa: Designed for freelancers and remote workers.
- The Golden Visa: For those with significant savings to invest in Portugal, requiring an average stay of only 7 days per year.
- The D2 Visa: Aimed at entrepreneurs or those planning to start a business in Portugal.
Attractions
Beaches and Surfing
Ericeira is renowned for its beautiful beaches and world-class surf spots. The town is Europe’s only World Surfing Reserve, boasting seven world-class waves within 4 kilometres. Ribeira d’Ilhas and Coxos are particularly famous among surfers, while Praia do Sul and Praia do Norte offer lovely spots for sunbathing and swimming.
Historic Centre
The charming historic centre of Ericeira is a maze of narrow, cobblestone streets lined with traditional white and blue houses. Here, you’ll find quaint shops, cafes, and restaurants, as well as historic buildings like the Igreja de São Pedro, a beautiful 15th-century church.
Mafra National Palace
Just 10 kilometres from Ericeira lies the impressive Mafra National Palace. This enormous Baroque palace-monastery complex is one of Portugal’s largest buildings and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It features a stunning library, ornate basilica, and extensive gardens.
Expat Life
Ericeira has a thriving expat community, particularly popular among younger professionals, digital nomads, and surf enthusiasts. The town attracts a diverse mix of nationalities, including British, American, French, German, and Brazilian expats. This international flavour has influenced the local culture, resulting in a blend of traditional Portuguese life and modern, global sensibilities.
The expat community is generally tight-knit, with numerous social events, language exchange meetups, and surf gatherings. Many expats appreciate the balance between the laid-back coastal lifestyle and the proximity to Lisbon’s cosmopolitan atmosphere. However, some find the small-town feel a bit limiting, especially during the quieter winter months.
Retiring Here
Ericeira can be an attractive option for retirees seeking a coastal lifestyle with good amenities. The town offers a relaxed pace of life, beautiful scenery, and a warm climate, which are significant draws for many retirees. The presence of an international community can make the transition easier for non-Portuguese speakers.
Healthcare is a crucial consideration for retirees, and while Ericeira itself has limited facilities, there are good hospitals within reach in nearby towns and Lisbon. The cost of living, while higher than in some parts of Portugal, is still generally lower than in many other Western European countries or the US.
The flat terrain in parts of the town centre can be beneficial for those with mobility issues, although some areas have steep hills. The main challenges for retirees might be the busy tourist seasons and the need for a car to access certain services and explore the surrounding areas.
Food
Ericeira offers a diverse culinary scene, blending traditional Portuguese dishes with international cuisine. Here are some regional specialities:
- Ouriços (Sea Urchins): A local delicacy, often served raw or in rice dishes.
- Caneja de Infundice: A shark soup, unique to the region.
- Sopa do Mar: A hearty seafood soup packed with various types of fish and shellfish.
- Feijoada de Búzios: A hearty bean stew made with whelks, a type of sea snail.
You’ll also find national Portuguese dishes like caldo verde (kale soup), grilled fish, grilled meat dishes, and cozido à portuguesa (a Portuguese stew) on most traditional Portuguese menus. And of course, the beloved pastel de nata is widely available.
For vegans and vegetarians, Ericeira offers more options than many smaller Portuguese towns, thanks to its international community. While traditional Portuguese cuisine is heavy on meat and fish, many restaurants in Ericeira cater to various dietary requirements due to the high number of surfers, backpackers, and digital nomads.
Upsides & Downsides of Living Here
Pros
- Beautiful coastal setting with world-class surfing
- Proximity to Lisbon (about 50 km)
- Strong expat community
- Good weather year-round
- Relaxed, outdoor-oriented lifestyle
Cons
- High cost of living, especially for housing (rentals are similar to Lisbon prices)
- Limited public transport options (despite the short distance, getting to Lisbon by bus takes quite a while)
- Can feel crowded during peak tourist season
- Limited job opportunities outside of tourism and remote work
- May be too expat-y or hipster-y for those looking for authenticity
Climate
Ericeira enjoys a Mediterranean climate with mild temperatures year-round. Summers are warm and dry, with average temperatures ranging from 18°C to 26°C (64°F to 79°F). Winters are mild and relatively wet, with temperatures typically between 10°C and 16°C (50°F to 61°F).
The town benefits from its coastal location, with sea breezes providing relief from summer heat. The Atlantic Ocean is suitable for swimming from June to September, with water temperatures ranging from 18°C to 22°C (64°F to 72°F).
While Ericeira doesn’t have the scorching heat of some Mediterranean destinations, its climate is ideal for those who enjoy outdoor activities year-round. The nearby beaches offer a perfect way to cool off during the warmer months.
Will I Need to Learn Portuguese?
While English is widely spoken in Ericeira, especially in tourist-oriented businesses and among the younger population, learning Portuguese is highly recommended for a fuller integration into local life. Many older residents and those in more traditional businesses may have limited English skills.
Learning Portuguese will greatly enhance your daily life, allowing you to communicate more effectively with neighbours, local shop owners, and service providers. It’s also crucial for navigating bureaucratic processes and healthcare services.
Moreover, Portuguese people greatly appreciate when foreigners make an effort to speak their language, even if it’s just basic phrases. It’s a sign of respect for the local culture and can open doors to deeper connections within the community.
For those considering long-term residency or citizenship, note that passing an A2 level Portuguese language exam is a requirement for obtaining Portuguese citizenship.
To start your Portuguese language journey, check out this guide on learning Portuguese.
Schools
Ericeira has several schooling options for families with children:
- Public Schools: There are public schools in Ericeira that follow the Portuguese curriculum. These are free for residents but instruction is in Portuguese.
- Private Schools: Some private schools in the area offer bilingual education or international curricula.
- International Schools: While there aren’t international schools directly in Ericeira, there are options in Lisbon and surrounding areas, about a 30-45 minute drive away. The nearest option is probably the International School Torres Vedras, which teaches a British and Portuguese curriculum for Ages 1 to 18. However, there are more options if you’re willing to drive closer to Lisbon.
For higher education, students typically commute to universities in Lisbon or other nearby cities.
For more detailed information about the Portuguese school system and options for international students, visit this comprehensive guide to schools in Portugal.
Getting Around
Ericeira is a relatively small town, and the centre is quite walkable. However, some areas can be hilly, which might be challenging for those with mobility issues.
- Train: There’s no train station in Ericeira. The nearest station is in Mafra, about 10 km away.
- Bus: Ericeira has a bus station with services to Lisbon (45 minutes to 1.5 hours), Sintra, and other nearby towns. While adequate for occasional trips, it may not be ideal for daily commuting.
- Car: Many residents find having a car necessary, especially for accessing surrounding areas and larger supermarkets. Parking can be challenging in the town centre during peak tourist season.
- Ride-sharing: Uber and other ride-sharing services are available in Ericeira. Traditional taxis are available too.
- Flying: The nearest airport is Lisbon Airport, about 40 km away. It offers flights to major cities in Europe, the US, and beyond. An Uber here takes around 30-40 minutes, depending on traffic.
Day trips from Ericeira are plentiful and diverse. You can easily visit historic Sintra with its fairy-tale palaces, explore the bustling streets of Lisbon, or head to the beautiful beaches of Cascais. The medieval town of Óbidos, known for its well-preserved castle walls, is about an hour’s drive north. For nature lovers, the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park offers hiking trails and stunning coastal views, all within easy reach of Ericeira.