Santarém, nestled in the picturesque Ribatejo region of Portugal, is a city rich in history and cultural significance. Perched atop a ridge, it offers stunning views of the meandering Tagus River below, a sight that has captivated visitors and residents alike for centuries. This strategic location once made Santarém the strongest fortress in Portugal, second in importance only to Lisbon, playing a pivotal role in the country’s historical narrative.
The city’s past is a tapestry of various cultures and civilisations, including the Romans, Visigoths, Moors, and finally the Portuguese Christians, each leaving a distinct mark on its architecture, traditions, and way of life. The remnants of these eras, from Gothic churches to ancient Roman structures, are tangible connections to Santarém’s illustrious past, inviting exploration and admiration.
In contemporary times, Santarém has transformed into a vibrant agricultural hub, leveraging its fertile lands along the Tagus River. This agricultural prowess is celebrated annually with a ten-day fair in June, drawing visitors from across Portugal and beyond. The fair is not just a showcase of the region’s agricultural products but also a lively festival filled with music, dance, and traditional festivities, highlighting the community’s spirit and hospitality.
Moreover, Santarém’s gastronomy festival at the end of October is a testament to its rich culinary heritage. This large-scale event attracts food enthusiasts eager to sample the local cuisine, renowned for its variety and flavours that encapsulate the essence of Portuguese cooking. From traditional dishes featuring bullfighting cattle to the rich array of wines produced in the Ribatejo region, the festival is a celebration of taste and tradition.
Santarém today, while modern and forward-looking, remains deeply connected to its roots. Its historical sites, coupled with the annual celebrations of agriculture and gastronomy, make it a unique destination where the past and present converge. Whether one is drawn to its rich history, stunning landscapes, or culinary delights, Santarém offers a multitude of experiences, making it a cherished jewel in Portugal’s cultural and historical landscape.
Getting Here
There are several ways to get to Santarém, particularly from Lisbon.
- By Air: The nearest major airport to Santarém is Lisbon Airport.
- By Train: Trains depart frequently from Lisbon’s Santa Apolonia and Oriente stations. The fastest Intercidades (IC) trains can whisk you to Santarém in approximately 45 minutes, providing a quick and efficient way to reach the city. For those not in a hurry, local trains offer a slower pace, taking anywhere from over an hour to 90 minutes, depending on the service. It’s worth noting that Santarém Station is located 2 km south of the town center.
- By Bus: The journey by bus takes about an hour and delivers passengers to the bus station in Santarém, situated near Praça Sá da Bandeira on the Avenida do Brasil, in the heart of the old town. Additionally, Santarém serves as a hub for bus services to other notable destinations in the region, including Alpiarça, Abrantes, Coimbra, and Fátima, making it a convenient base for further exploration.
- By Car: Hiring a car offers the most flexibility for visitors, allowing for a leisurely drive from Lisbon to Santarém in about an hour. This option is ideal for those who wish to explore at their own pace or visit other attractions in the Ribatejo region without being tied to train or bus schedules.
What To See & Do
Santarém Market
The Santarém Municipal Market is a fascinating blend of functionality and history, serving as both a bustling hub for local farmers and producers and a point of interest for visitors drawn to its architectural and historical significance. This market’s transformation from an outdoor trading space to a covered market hall in 1928 marked a significant evolution in its role within the community, thanks to the vision of Cassiano Branco, one of Portugal’s most renowned architects.
One of the market’s most striking features is the tile panels that adorn its walls, dating back to the early nineteenth century. These panels are not only beautiful but also serve as a visual narrative of the Ribatejo region’s rich agricultural heritage. They depict the diverse landscapes of Ribatejanas, showcasing the traditional methods of agricultural production, architecture, and the natural environment of the time. These illustrations provide a vivid snapshot of rural life and practices, many of which continue to shape the region’s identity and economy.
Jardim das Portas do Sol
The Portas do Sol garden in Santarém offers breathtaking views that sweep across the Rio Tejo (Tagus River) and the expansive plains that it nurtures.
Historically, during the Christian Reconquest in the 12th century, this site marked one of the eight gates that provided access to the city of Santarém. Today, the remaining section of wall at Portas do Sol is the most well-preserved part of the city’s ancient defensive structures. While much of the original fortifications were lost to the city’s expansion over centuries, visitors can still find remnants of these historic walls at Fonte das Figueiras and the Torre das Cabaças.
Today the former castle has been transformed into a lush garden, where ancient walls embrace tranquil walkways and shaded areas, making it an ideal spot for picnics or leisurely afternoons. The garden’s beauty is amplified at sundown, when the setting sun casts a golden glow over the landscape, creating a spectacle that is both tranquil and awe-inspiring.
Sé Catedral de Nossa Senhora da Conceição
The Santarém Cathedral, with its rich historical tapestry and architectural grandeur, stands as a monument to the religious and cultural evolution of Santarém. Originally known as the Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição do Colégio dos Jesuítas, or the Seminary Church, it occupies the site of the former Royal Palace of Alcáçova Nova. This royal residence, abandoned since the reign of D. João II in the 15th century, found new life in the 17th century when King D. João IV entrusted the ruins to the Society of Jesus for the creation of a school and church dedicated to Our Lady of Conception.
The construction of the church, financed by D. Duarte da Costa, a Jesuit and chief armorer, was overseen by the architect Mateus do Couto, favoured by the military orders for his expertise. Couto’s design manifests in the Mannerist facade of the building, which is divided into five sections. This facade is rhythmically detailed with windows and decorative elements, including niches housing statues of saints venerated by the Society of Jesus and, at the peak, the church’s patron saint. Notably, the traditional bell towers are absent, replaced instead by two large volutes and pinnacles, adding to the distinctive aesthetic of the structure.
Inside, the cathedral transitions to a Baroque splendor, with its use of ornamental marble, gilded carvings on the side altars, and ceiling paintings that draw the eye upwards. The main chapel is particularly notable for its stonework inlays from 1713, indicative of the artistic preferences during D. João V’s reign. These inlays were designed by Carlos Baptista Garvo, highlighting marble sculptures of Saint Ignatius of Loyola and Saint Francis Xavier by Paduan sculptor João António Bellini. Additionally, Bellini’s work graces the altar of Our Lady of Good Death, crafted in Carrara marble in 1740.
The cathedral’s layout is emblematic of Jesuit architectural principles, featuring a spacious single nave illuminated by tribune windows, with a ceiling that presents an illusionistic perspective painting, enhancing the sense of divine presence and architectural depth.
What to Eat
While you will find Portuguese dishes common throughout Portugal here (e.g. bacalhau, piri-piri-chicken, and grilled fish), you will also find a number of dishes that are unique to Santarém and the surrounding area. Santarém’s cuisine embodies the rich gastronomic traditions of Portugal, with a distinct emphasis on the flavours and ingredients that define the Ribatejo region.
Fish dishes, such as Açorda de Sável (a bread-based dish with shad), Sopa de Peixe do Rio (river fish soup), and Fataça na Telha (fish baked on a tile) showcase the fresh flavours of the nearby river. Cod, Portugal’s beloved fish, holds a special place in Santarém’s cuisine. One of the most traditional ways to enjoy it is in Magusto, a unique dish where cod is served with roasted chestnuts, blending the savoury taste of the fish with the sweet, nutty flavors of chestnuts – a true celebration of local ingredients.
Meat also plays a crucial role in the culinary repertoire of Santarém. Beef skewered on laurel sticks offers a fragrant and flavourful experience, a favourite among both locals and tourists. Pork dishes, such as broad beans with spare ribs, are staples in taverns and restaurants throughout the city, providing a hearty and satisfying meal that reflects the region’s agricultural richness.
Santarém’s culinary journey would not be complete without its traditional sweets. The region’s pastries, rich in eggs, sugar, and almonds, offer a delightful end to any meal. Queijinhos do Céu, Arrepiados de Almoster, Celestes de Santa Clara, and the divine Pampilho are just a few examples of the exquisite desserts available.
The rich tapestry of local cuisine can be fully experienced at two major events that draw visitors from across Portugal and beyond. The Feira Nacional da Agricultura (National Agriculture Fair), held in early June, and the Festival de Gastronomia (Gastronomy Festival), taking place in the last week of October and the first week of November, are vibrant celebrations of the region’s agricultural abundance and culinary heritage.