The Fantastic World of the Portuguese Sardine recently opened in Times Square, New York. It might seem odd to find a store dedicated to sardines in Times Square, but putting a tinned sardine store alongside the M&M store gives you an idea of just how much the Portuguese love sardines.
In Portugal, sardines are one of the most popular traditional foods. They’re loved by many, whether they’re tinned (canned) or fresh, although it’s worth noting that tinned food in Portugal is of a much higher quality than you might find in places like the US or UK. You’ll also find sardine spread served as part of the couvert in Portugal, something you can spread on your bread instead of butter.
If you visit any coastal area in Portugal during the summer, you’re likely to encounter the scent of grilled sardines with every corner your turn. It’s a strong smell, and if you’re not used to it, it might be a little too strong. However, it’s a quintessential Portuguese smell and for many, signifies that summer is here.
And, if you happen to be in the right place at the right time, you might even stumble upon festivals that celebrate the grilled sardine, such as the sardine festival in Portimão. You’ll also encounter sardines at the summer festivals (santos populares) such as Santo António Festival and the Festa de São João in Porto.
And it’s not just about eating them; in tourist shops across Portugal, sardines are a popular motif. You’ll find them on porcelain plates, plates, tablecloths, and magnets and everywhere else.
Sardines have even made their way into popular Portuguese expressions. One popular saying is, “A mulher e a sardinha querem-se pequenina,” which means “a woman and a sardine are meant to be small.” This saying reflects the preference for smaller sardines, believed to taste better and Portuguese women are normally short.
Another common expression, “cada um puxa a brasa à sua sardinha,” translates to “each one pushes the coal to their own sardine.” It’s used to describe a situation where people are mainly looking out for themselves, similar to the English saying “to each his own.”
When to Eat Sardines
You will find grilled sardines on menus throughout the year, but it’s important to note that out of season they will likely be cooked from frozen and won’t taste as good.
The sardine fishing season in Portugal is an important time of year. Sardines reproduce from October to April, during which fishing for them is not allowed. This helps to ensure that there are plenty of sardines for the future.
The official season for fishing sardines runs from May through October. This timing makes sardines a popular choice for beach food during the summer. A typical summer meal in Portugal might include grilled sardines served with potatoes, bread, and a salad – a true taste of the Portuguese summer.
Of course, you can eat tinned sardines at any time of the year. In more upmarket pestiscos bars, you may find them as an option on the menu.
How to eat sardines
There are two main ways to eat sardines: grilled or tinned.
Grilled
In Portugal, the way sardines are served can change from place to place, showcasing the versatility of this beloved fish. In Lisbon, a common way to enjoy sardines is with slices of rustic bread. Here, the sardines are often placed directly on the bread, allowing the oils and flavors from the fish—rich with juiciness and a hint of salt—to soak into the bread, creating a simple yet profoundly flavorful dish.
Moving north to Porto, the presentation of sardines takes on a different tradition. Here, they are typically served with boiled potatoes and grilled red peppers, offering a hearty and colorful meal. The combination of the soft, warm potatoes, the sweet and slightly charred peppers, and the savory sardines provides a well-rounded and satisfying experience, reflecting the culinary preferences of the region.
Tinned (canned)
In Portugal, sardines are not just a simple seafood that stored in brine; they’re a canvas for a wide variety of flavours. When canned, they come with an array of seasonings and sauces, each adding its unique taste to the fish. You can find sardines in vegetable oil for a classic taste, or in extra-virgin olive oil for a richer flavor. There are options in tomato sauce for a tangy kick, or in spicy olive oil and spicy tomato sauce for those who prefer a bit of heat.
For a more herbaceous note, sardines with oregano offer a Mediterranean twist, while piri piri brings a fiery zest typical of Portuguese cuisine. There are also sardines paired with bell peppers, imbuing the fish with a sweet and savory profile, or with cloves, lemon juice, and garlic for a more aromatic experience. For those who enjoy a hint of black pepper or the exotic taste of curry sauce, there are sardines that cater to these preferences as well.
The beauty of canned sardines lies in how the sauce or seasoning blends with the fish meat during the canning process. This integration of flavors enriches the sardines, making them not just a convenient meal or snack, but a deliciously complex one too. Whether enjoyed straight from the can, tossed in a salad, or served on toast, these flavored sardines offer a taste adventure that’s both nutritious and satisfying.
Where to Buy Tinned Sardines
If you’re on the hunt for exceptional tinned sardines, while places like The Fantastic World of the Portuguese Sardine (O Mundo Fantástico da Sardinha Portuguesa) in New York, Lisbon, and Porto exist, a visit to a specialist shop like Conserveira de Lisboa in Lisbon is highly recommended.
While you can spot places like O Mundo Fantástico da Sardinha Portuguesa from across the street, their bright lights designed to lure in tourists, they are far from traditional and, being geared towards tourists, are more expensive and may not have the range of flavours you’ll find in a traditional conserveira.
Conserveira de Lisboa, founded in 1930, is nestled in the heart of Lisbon, just a short walk from the city’s Cathedral. It’s a store that takes you back in time, with its original wooden counter, shelving, and even the office space. The walls are adorned with vintage ads that date back to the 1930s, offering a glimpse into the past.
The shop specialises in canned goods, with a focus on fish and seafood, but it also offers other traditional Portuguese products such as olive oil and jams. What makes Conserveira de Lisboa stand out is its commitment to tradition and quality. The diversity of its offerings is remarkable, each product staying true to its original flavour and heritage.
Visiting Conserveira de Lisboa is not just about buying tinned sardines; it’s an experience that connects you with the rich culinary traditions of Portugal. It’s a place where you can feel the history and dedication to craftsmanship that has been preserved over the decades. For anyone looking to discover the authentic taste of Portugal’s preserved fish, Conserveira de Lisboa is a must-visit destination.
A Dying Tradition?
The tradition of eating sardines in Portugal, once a staple of the local diet, is undergoing significant changes. The heart of the issue lies in two closely linked problems: the rising cost of sardines and the restrictions placed on fishing them, both of which stem from declining sardine populations.
Historically, sardines were an abundant and affordable food source in Portugal, a country that, for a long time, has faced economic challenges compared to its European neighbours.
Sardines were a common, inexpensive option on restaurant menus, accessible to all. However, as sardine numbers have dwindled, the cost of these fish has risen. What was once a budget-friendly meal has now become priced similarly to other types of fish, reflecting a shift in its accessibility and consumption.
The decline in the Portuguese sardine industry is primarily attributed to two factors: climate change and overfishing. These challenges have not only reduced sardine populations but also led to increased regulations on their capture to prevent further depletion.
In response to these changes, the industry and consumers alike are adapting by turning to alternative local fish species, such as the carapau (horse mackerel) and cavala (chub mackerel). These species are being considered as substitutes for sardines, both to alleviate pressure on sardine populations and to continue supporting Portugal’s rich culinary tradition.
However, while the Portuguese may be eating less sardines overall, if you come to Portugal in the summer months, you’ll see lots of Portuguese people tucking into sardines, either from a stall or in a restaurant, enjoying this essential part of their culture.