Today, we’re speaking with Ivan Ivanov who’s living in Monsaraz, a picturesque town in Portugal’s Alentejo region. Originally from Bulgaria, our interviewee moved to Portugal nearly 5 years ago, having lived in the UK previously, and has been living in Alentejo for the past year. Let’s dive into their experience of rural Portuguese life.
James: Can you tell us what drew you to Portugal, and specifically to the Alentejo region?
Ivan: It was mainly about quality of life and safety. My girlfriend is Portuguese, and when we found out we were expecting our first child, we decided to move here to raise our family. We initially settled in the Lisbon area but eventually saw a great housing opportunity in Alentejo and moved down here.
James: How would you describe life in Monsaraz to our readers who might be considering a move to rural Portugal?
Ivan: It’s incredibly peaceful. The area is known for its vineyards, the castle, olive trees, and the Alqueva lake. In the summer, there’s plenty to do – we have a nice community pool, and the lake is amazing for swimming and water sports. Winters are quieter, but it never gets freezing cold. The coldest I’ve experienced was about 4-5 degrees Celsius.
James: How would you compare life here compared to Bulgaria? What are some of the main cultural differences and similarities?
Ivan: How friendly, emotional and open people are. Bulgarians mostly keep to themselves and they definitely will not show any emotion. Being gentle, emotional and talking about your feelings is not considered “manly” in a culture where being manly and tough is seen as a positive. Portuguese people are the polar opposite – they over-share, they talk about their feelings and are not afraid to show emotion and passion. I would say Portuguese people are easier to approach in general, but Bulgaria is a prettier country and there is more to do/see, while being more reasonably priced.
James: Are there any things that you miss from Bulgaria or the UK that you can’t find locally, whether that’s food, activities or anything else?
Ivan: Nando’s chicken. We are considering flying back there just to eat at Nando’s. We worked there for 4+ years and aren’t tired of it at all, and miss it dearly lol. We also have many friends in the UK that we would like to see. About Bulgaria – I miss how little worry I had there (probably because I was younger) but people don’t generally concern themselves much with politics, the outside world, who’s fighting who. Also its home so I visit quite regularly, once a year at least.
James: What about the cost of living? How does it compare to more urban areas?
Ivan: It’s quite affordable. Last year, families were renting houses for about 400 euros per month. We’re about to buy a 3-bedroom semi-detached house for 100,000 euros. Food used to be cheap, though it’s getting more expensive, especially in restaurants. Utilities like water and electricity are very cheap – we have some of the lowest electricity rates in Europe.
James: What would you typically pay in a restaurant?
Ivan: In Portugal – for a family of 4 I’d say around 30-40 euros if we want to eat a decent meal at a local establishment. If we wanna have Sangria, desserts etc can go up to 60. Sadly prices increased quite noticeably, but it’s still possible to eat for 10 euros per person in the local “cafes” or take a whole chicken home for that price.
James: Many of our readers are concerned about healthcare when moving abroad. What has been your experience with medical services in the area?
Ivan: With insurance, healthcare is very affordable and accessible. I can book a dental appointment for the next day and pay only 30-40 euros for a tooth decay clean-up. We had two of our children in a semi-private hospital, paid nothing, stayed for two nights, and received 5-star treatment. Portugal is excellent for pregnancy and childbirth – they take fantastic care of pregnant women, new mothers, and children here.
James: Did you have health insurance to cover the hospital?
Ivan: Yes, if I hadn’t then we would have gone to the Public sector. For giving birth it’s fine, but if you need surgery or similar, you might have to wait a long time.
James: Have you already looked at schools for when your children get older? What options are available?
Ivan: There’s plenty and that’s what I like, for all ages. You could put your kids at school from 6 months up until 18 years old. Our eldest starter is 1 year old and now he has at least 3 choices for when he starts elementary school. Although, I do find the subjects they teach here in Alentejo lacking, primarily English – I would love to see more English implemented, even in the Private school it’s pretty weak.
James: For those who work remotely, internet connectivity is crucial. How’s the internet situation in Monsaraz?
Ivan: Portugal actually has some of the fastest internet in Europe. In our rural area, I get speeds of about 500 Mbps download and 300 Mbps upload. The main issue is accessibility – not all houses have access to fiber networks yet. We had to insist with the ISP to install a fiber post near our house, but it’s improving as younger people move into rural regions.
James: Speaking of younger people, what’s the demographic like in your area?
Ivan: It’s surprisingly young. In our neighborhood of four houses, the average age is around 35. More digital nomads are moving here, attracted by the cheap housing and relaxed lifestyle.
James: Has it been easy to integrate and get to know other people?
Ivan: Yes, very, however I was lucky because my girlfriend is Portuguese and her family is big.
James: What about learning the language? How have you managed and would you say it’s a necessity where you live?
Ivan: It definitely helps, and Portuguese people will praise you if you manage to learn some of it, however, more and more people are picking up English, so with each passing year it will get easier for foreigners that speak English.
James: Finally, what would you say to someone considering a move to rural Portugal?
Ivan: If you’re a person who dislikes busy city life and doesn’t mind living about 45 minutes from a big city, then it’s perfect. The people are friendly, the food is fantastic – especially the local pork dishes and cheeses – and the quality of life is excellent. Just be prepared for very hot summers – it can reach 42°C!
James: Besides the heat, are there any other downsides to be aware of?
Ivan: As I mentioned, probably the heat during the summer, the lack of activities and the lack of job choice in the region itself. There are plenty of jobs, however, mostly in the same 2 sectors – hotels/tourism or agriculture. There is little to do in the winter here, Luckily, winter is only about 2 months, whereas summer and good weather can be nearly 8 if you’re lucky.