Chaves, a historic thermal city in northern Portugal, offers a unique blend of Roman heritage and modern living that appeals to those seeking an authentic Portuguese lifestyle away from the coastal crowds. Located just 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) from the Spanish border, this city of roughly 41,000 inhabitants sits in the verdant Alto Tâmega region, known for its healing thermal waters and rich agricultural valleys. The city’s name, meaning “keys” in Portuguese, reflects its historic strategic importance as a gateway between Portugal and Spain. Unlike the more tourist-heavy coastal regions, Chaves maintains a predominantly local character while still hosting a small but growing international community, particularly drawing French and British expats attracted to its affordable property prices and thermal spa culture.
Renting & Buying Property
The property market in Chaves offers excellent value compared to Portugal’s major cities and coastal regions, making it particularly attractive for those seeking an authentic Portuguese living experience without the premium prices found elsewhere.
Buying
Property prices in Chaves remain notably affordable by Portuguese standards. Rural properties requiring renovation can be found from €50,000, while restored traditional stone houses start from €150,000. Modern apartments in the city center range from €120,000 to €250,000, and luxury villas with land can reach €500,000 or more. The area features a mix of traditional granite houses, modern apartments, and rural quintas (farmhouses) with land.
Renting
Rental prices in Chaves are significantly lower than in major Portuguese cities. A one-bedroom apartment in the center costs between €400-600 monthly, while three-bedroom properties range from €600-900. Properties in surrounding villages can be even more affordable. More details about the rental process in Portugal can be found at Portugalist’s renting guide.
Cost of Living
Living expenses in Chaves are notably lower than in Portugal’s coastal cities. Beyond housing costs, daily expenses are quite reasonable. A meal at a local restaurant costs around €8-12, while a coffee and pastel de nata might cost €2. Utilities for a typical apartment run about €80-120 monthly. Fresh produce from the local market is particularly affordable, reflecting the region’s agricultural heritage.
Can I move to Chaves?
Portugal offers various visa options for those looking to make Chaves their home:
- EU/EEA/Swiss nationals: Can move freely to Chaves, needing only to register with local authorities after three months.
- The D7 Visa: Popular among retirees in Chaves due to the lower cost of living, making pension income stretch further.
- The Digital Nomad Visa: While Chaves isn’t a digital nomad hotspot like Porto or Lisbon, it offers a peaceful environment for remote work with good internet infrastructure.
- The Golden Visa: Investors can consider qualifying Portuguese investment funds while enjoying Chaves’ thermal spa lifestyle.
- The D2: Entrepreneurs might find opportunities in Chaves’ growing tourism and wellness sectors, particularly in thermal spa-related businesses.
For personalized advice about moving to Portugal, contact Portugalist.
Attractions
Roman Bridge and Historical Center
The iconic Roman Bridge spans the Tâmega River, connecting the historical center with the Madalena neighborhood. Built in the 2nd century AD, it remains one of the best-preserved Roman bridges in Portugal. The surrounding medieval quarter features narrow granite streets and historic buildings that tell the story of two millennia of history.
Thermal Springs
Chaves’ thermal springs are among the hottest in Europe, reaching temperatures of 76°C (169°F). The modern spa complex offers various treatments and wellness programs, making it a major draw for health tourism. The historic Buvette building provides free access to the thermal waters, which locals still use daily.
Chaves Castle
The medieval castle, with its keep dating from the 14th century, offers panoramic views over the city and Tâmega Valley. The surrounding gardens provide a peaceful retreat and host cultural events throughout the year.
Expat Life
The expat community in Chaves is smaller and more integrated than in coastal areas, primarily consisting of French, British, and Dutch residents. Many are retirees or semi-retirees attracted by the thermal waters and peaceful lifestyle. While the expat scene isn’t as developed as in the Algarve or Silver Coast, this often leads to closer integration with the local Portuguese community and a more authentic living experience.
Retiring Here
Chaves presents an attractive retirement option for those seeking a quieter, more traditional Portuguese lifestyle. The city’s thermal waters and spa facilities are particularly appealing to retirees interested in wellness. The relatively flat city center is easy to navigate, though some historic areas have steep streets. Healthcare is good, with both public and private facilities available, including the recently renovated Hospital de Chaves. The lower cost of living makes pensions stretch further, and the small size makes it easy to become part of the community.
Digital Nomad Life
While not a traditional digital nomad destination, Chaves offers a unique opportunity for remote workers seeking a peaceful environment. There’s one coworking space in the city center, and several cafés offer reliable WiFi. The city’s smaller size means less networking opportunities compared to major tech hubs, but the quality of life and affordability compensate for this. Internet connectivity is generally good throughout the city center.
Food
- Presunto de Chaves – Local cured ham recognized for its unique flavor, cured in the region’s specific microclimate.
- Pastel de Chaves – A savory pastry filled with veal, this local delicacy has protected status and is a must-try.
- Feijoada à Transmontana – A hearty bean stew with various meats, typical of the region’s robust cuisine.
- Posta à Barrosã – A thick cut of local Barrosã beef, simply grilled and seasoned with salt.
For those with dietary restrictions, Chaves has a growing number of restaurants catering to different needs, though options are more limited than in larger cities. Several vegetarian-friendly restaurants have opened in recent years, though traditional restaurants may have limited vegan options.
Upsides & Downsides Of Living Here
Pros
- Affordable cost of living
- Rich historical heritage
- Excellent thermal spa facilities
- Strong sense of community
- Clean air and beautiful surrounding nature
- Proximity to Spain for day trips
Cons
- Limited international flight connections
- Fewer entertainment options than larger cities
- Hot summers and cold winters
- May feel isolated for those used to city life
- Limited English usage in daily life
- Smaller job market
Climate
Chaves experiences continental climate influences, with distinct seasons. Summers are hot, with temperatures regularly reaching 35°C (95°F), while winters can be cold, dropping to 0°C (32°F) or below. Spring and autumn are mild and pleasant. The city receives more extreme temperatures than coastal areas, though several river beaches (praias fluviais) along the Tâmega River offer summer cooling opportunities.
Will I Need To Learn Portuguese?
In Chaves, learning Portuguese is particularly important as English is less widely spoken than in tourist areas. While some younger people and those in tourism speak English, daily interactions with locals, from shopping to administrative tasks, often require Portuguese. The city’s location in the traditional north means that Portuguese language skills are essential for full integration into the community.
Want to start learning Portuguese? Check out Portugalist’s guide to learning Portuguese.
Schools
Chaves offers a range of educational options. Public schools are free and of good quality, though instruction is in Portuguese. Private schools include the Colégio de Chaves, which offers some English-language support. The nearest international schools are in Porto, about 140 kilometers away. The city hosts a branch of the Universidade de Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro, offering several degree programs.
For more information about schooling options in Portugal, visit Portugalist’s school guide.
Getting Around
- Walking: The city center is relatively flat and compact, making it walkable for daily needs
- Cycling: Growing cycling infrastructure, though some areas are hilly
- Public Transport: Local bus network covers the city and nearby villages
- Train: No direct train service; nearest station is in Vila Real
- Bus: Regular intercity bus services to Porto, Lisbon, and other major cities
- Car: Recommended for exploring the region and reaching larger cities
- Taxis: Available and affordable; Uber is not currently operating in Chaves
- Airport: Nearest airports are Porto (140 km) and Vigo, Spain (170 km)
Day Trips
From Chaves, you can easily explore the Alto Tâmega region, including the historic village of Vidago with its palace hotel and thermal springs (15 km away), the Douro Valley wine region (1.5 hours), and Spanish cities like Verín (20 km). The Peneda-Gerês National Park is within 90 minutes’ drive, offering hiking and nature activities.
Similar locations
- Vila Real – Larger university city with similar mountain setting but more modern amenities
- Bragança – Historic city with similar border location but cooler climate
- Lamego – Known for religious heritage and wine culture, with comparable size
- Mirandela – Smaller city with similar thermal heritage but warmer climate
- Viseu – Larger city with more facilities but retaining similar traditional atmosphere